98luder’s Weblog


Next is the Clay test for valve to piston clearance
July 29, 2013, 2:45 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Will post results soon
valve to piston clearance
These tests are quite time consuming as you need to install everything and remove everything over and over again to test the multitude of cam degrees.



Now that the bottom end is done we can start with the top end
July 29, 2013, 2:42 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Top end tests, start with valve to valve clearance. We need to know how much we can adjust our cam gears before they valves will have contact with each other. You don’t want to be tuning on the dyno and “hope” your valves don’ contact and ruin all you work.

valve to valve clearance

intake valve exhaust valve clearance
0 0 lots of clearance
+4 0 .060″ good
+8 0 .050″ good
+10 0 .048″ good
+10 +4 .060″ good
+10 -2 .055″ good
+10 -4 .026″ TIGHT!!!
0 -2 .060″+ good
0 -10 good clearance
+4 -10 .028″ tight
+2 -10 .058″ good
+6 -6 .034″ getting close
+6 -8 .024″ tight

From this test it looks like you do not want a separation of 14degrees ie +10 intake and -4exhaust, or +7 intake and -7 exhaust. Doing so would put you in a very tight clearance and very little room for error.



Password JDM magnetic drain plugs
July 29, 2013, 2:07 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL, Part comparison/review

To close off the bottom end we decided to go with some Password JDM magnetic drain plugs to help pull any metallic contaminants that may be floating around during breakin. There are two plugs that come in a set, one for engine and one for tranny.
Password JDM plugs
Password JDM plugs

I took a video showing how strong the magnets are in these drain plugs



Closing up oil pan, baffled oil pan via password jdm
July 29, 2013, 2:02 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL, Part comparison/review

Before I close up the oil pan I reinstall the oil pickup with new gaskets.
oil pickup gasket
oil pan gasket
new gaskets

Now for the oil pan.
We installed the Password JDM oil pan baffle kit to help keep oil where it should be during hard track days.
Take a look:
Before oil pan baffle install
stock  oil pan

After oil pan baffle install, welding credit goes to my friend Cole. Thanks for doing it so fast and short notice.
baffled oil pan
welding
oil pan baffle



Installing pistons and piston rings
July 29, 2013, 1:41 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Installing the pistons and properly clocking the piston rings. Improper clocking of the rings could lead to excessive oil consumption.
clockign rings
oem clocking pattern

Drop them all in and retorque your rod bolts and we are close to completeing the bottom end.
all in

After install, I turn everything by hand to make sure everything moves smoothly and no binding of any kind.



Closing up bottom end seals
July 28, 2013, 9:34 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Now that we have all rod bearings in it’s time to close up the seals, brand new Honda oil pump, and a new rear main seal.
new oil pump

rear main seal
new rear main seal

Next close up with a new oil pan gasket and bolt up the new baffled oil pan



rod bolts, new HX bearings for new clearance
July 27, 2013, 8:52 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Well, looks like we have a full set of perfectly good and new ACL race rod bearings for a B18C.

old rod bearings

The new HX ACL rod bearings with the extra oil clearance came in. Hopefully these give enough clearance that i would feel safe running them.

new HX bearings

new bearings vs old bearings

After redoing the test, they are still on the tighter range of Honda’s recommendation but at least they are still with that range. So, we are good to go on the rod bearings and start closing up the bottom end.
final results



Rod bolts, tolerance too tight :( part 3
July 23, 2013, 1:59 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Checking the connecting rod bolts I found that the tolerance is borderline too tight. It is a really really tight tolerance that i’m not comfortable running for this particular build.
You can see here Honda recommends .0015~.002″ clearance for their b18c typeR setups.
oem clearances

Skunk2 recommends .0015~.003″
skunk2 clearances

The tolerance results with the standard size ACL race bearings.
ACL race rod bearings std size
tight tight tight

Doing some research I found that ACL does have a more oil tolerance bearing available, .001″ of extra clearance. So we overnight shipped these bearing and hopefully it arrives soon so we can test again. Once we find that it all fits we can move onto the clay testing(valve to piston clearance, and valve to valve clearance and get this back into the car so they can race 🙂



Connecting rod bearing test, part 2
July 19, 2013, 2:14 pm
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Here is a closer look at the oiling jets in the block and how they sit.
oil jets
contact

I tried moving the jet over to the left so that it still sprays the center of the piston, however, I did find that it starts having contact with the crank shaft itself.
moving oil jets
oil jet contact

So next thing I tried was to move the jets over the right, then angle the jet back to the center.
bending the jets
jet clears piston
bent jets
all done
all done

Wow that was unexpected waste of time, now back to the regular rod bearing test



Connecting rod bearing test, part 1
July 17, 2013, 2:48 am
Filed under: ENGINE BUILD KL

Prepping the rods and pistons for testing.
preping rods and pistons for testing

Separate the rod caps and get the ACL race bearings pressed in.
ACL bearings
ACL bearings pressed in

Skunk2 ARP rod bolts
Skunk2 ARP rod bolts

While putting the rods and piston in the cylinder I noticed that the piston was not allowing the rod to go all the way to the crank journal. With closer inspection I found that the supertech piston was contacting the oiling jet nozzle. The strutted piston design doesn’t work with this setup.
piston oil jet contact

I will try to bend the nozzle to clear the piston, while hopefully still lubricating and cooling the piston. I feel this would definitely be a good feature to keep, especially for a road racing setup…. until part2….