Filed under: stuff
Please note: this is not a instructional post, it is purely another post of what i do during my day to day… just another post on my blog. So if you are looking for a instructional post this is not fully detailed. I do go indepth about all the parts i desolder, and resolder and how to desolder and solder.
I have a few friends purchase the Hondata S300 engine management and required them installed into their ecu’s. This is much nicer than the usual Chrome setup if you have not used it. Just a simple USB wire and you can easily make changes and upload your new map…raise redline, change vtec cross over, change fuel/ignition maps, adjust idle. Way more user friendly than using a emulator to tune, save, then burning it onto a eeprom/chip, and reinstalling on the ecu board.
I’ll start with the ecu board prep. Basically there is a spot on the board that you can de-solder out then later on resolder pins in to install the Hondata S300 daughter board.
You can see here i de-soldered 27256, 74HC373, CN2
Top of the board
Bottom of the board
Then carefully solder in the pins and other components that is required for installation.
Top of the board
Bottom of the board
Hondata also supplies a new Capacitor for location C14 on the board. I have personally seen some of these blow and leave a mess on the board. I’m not sure why they go exactly but they do. If you open the board you’ll know cause it sure stinks.
This is a picture of the culprit
When reinstalling note that there is a pos(+) and a neg(-), so it is directional, there is a neg(-) symbol on the board and on the capacitor itself to let you know which direction it goes.
Please don’t mix these up or you are going to blow something
The next step is to cut the ecu case for the USB interface.
Mark it and carefully cut the opening.
Then reinstall the ecu board and press in the Hondata S300 daughter board to test fit.
Plug in the USB to make sure the hole is big enough and nothing is obstructing.
installed and done 🙂
Filed under: Tranny Kseries rebuild2
So what i have to start with is the 02-04 RSX typeS transmission.
-First thing is to manually check if you can shift into all gears, 1-6 and reverse, okay check that works.
-Second thing is to open up the tranny and visually inspect the gears to check condition, usually some will be worn just because it is a used tranny. The question is? how worn are the gears and syncros.
Lets see…
Here is the tranny during disassembly
Get out the plastic sheet and prep for operation. Tranny disassembly can be quite messy if there is tranny fluid still in the case.
Lets start start the examination with the main shaft, so that will be 3,4,5,6th gear.
All these gears looks decently sharp with their original shapes so seems good.
3rd gear
4th gear
5th gear
6th gear
Now lets take a look at the counter shaft, 1st and 2nd gear.
The 2nd gear looks a little worn, but still not as bad as my Kseries tranny build1 2nd gear, which looked totally deformed and you can’t even make out the points at all.
1st gear
2nd gear
Now, that the inspection is done, it’s time to transfer the 4.7 ring gear and counter shaft…part2
Filed under: engine build 5 k24 frankenstein
The PRB head i sent out to be cleaned up and install the new supertech valve train has returned back. I usually get hand ported heads, but this time i wanted to try a cnc ported head. Basically it is ported by a set programmed computer and should be more consistent. There are many variables, individuals porting by hand maybe more subjective in the way they port and more customized ie changing your power band from mid range to more top end, midrange vs drag racing. Some even say head porting is a type of black magic as the each porter has different styles and techniques, and of course they would not share their proprietary knowledge so very seldom are these secrets revealed nor explained. You just need to know that it works or the flow bench numbers are good.
Either way i’ve tried a couple of hand porters ie Endyn and CCCylinders, now i wanted to give CNC porting a try via 4piston racing. I originally wanted to try RLZ Engineering but communication was an issue. I then started hearing a lot of hype about Drag Cartel and 4Piston Racing. Both looked good, and both had great reviews, so my deciding factor came down to price…$1250US seemed not too bad +shipping + soda blast cleanup + assembly 🙂
Here is more information about the 4Piston pro156 port work
4Piston pro156
Okay lets get to the pictures everyone loves 🙂
Top of the head with the supertech dual valve springs/retiners/ new keepers and valve seals
Here is a shot of the combustion chamber where you can see the Supertech dished valve and a nicely decked face.
Now lets look at the beautiful ports produced by 4piston racing.
Lets start with the intake ports. The work looks awesome i’d say. I noticed a couple things compared to a regular hand porter.
-The hand porter usually cleans up the entire port but the cnc port looks like it only takes off the material required to allow it to flow as required, so the port is not entirely ported.
-They do not touch the section that the injectors spray into, i wonder if they leave it semi-rough/oem casting to allow for better fuel atomizing vs a smooth surface where fuel could adhere and not fully atomize and give a poor fuel mix.
-They also machine the valve guide right off so that the air has no blockage for max flow.
Now lets get to the exhaust ports. I noticed early that the Kseries exhaust ports are directional. Basically the outside ports(cylinder 1 and 4) point towards the center (ports 2 and 3). When you see the pictures you’ll understand what i mean, i wonder if this is for efficiency or just easier to design headers so they don’t stick right out of the head 🙂
You can also see that the porting the exhaust side also includes machining the guides flush to the ports as well.
cylinder 4
cylinder 3
cylinder 2
cylinder 1
Nice work guys 🙂 I can’t wait to try this thing out
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