98luder’s Weblog


still preping the motor
April 30, 2010, 4:54 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

i decided to use a breather filter on the back for venting postive crank case ventilation. Looking at the inside of some of the intake manifolds i see so much gunk that has been recycled back into intake stream.
this setup will just vent into atmosphere. Another way is to just use a oil catch can
pcv

Do a valve adjustment before loading the engine into the car.
Then do the valve adjustment again after 500kms to make sure nothing has gone out of spec, then again every 50k km’s. I like to go to lapping events and play around on the track so it’s best to do it more than the suggested every 96k km’s
valve adjustment

flywheel/clutch and tranny mounted on, we almost ready to put that sucker in there.
ready for installation

engine bay preped and ready to go
preped and ready to go



Preperation for breakin
April 27, 2010, 2:43 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

I decided to you some Mfactory magnetic drain plugs to pull any metal filings during the breakin period. I will be using both the tranny and engine oil drain plugs. These things are quite strong and effective as you can see in the picture below holding up my 1/2″ extention, and standing up sideways on the oil pan.

Thanks to Pat at Mfactory for hookin me up with these guys :)
Awesome products :)….more Mfactory stuff to come
stuck on you
hangin out



Getting closer
April 26, 2010, 3:55 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

did i bit more on the weekend but not much.
Intake manifold, and blox intake manifold gasket, timing belt and timing covers all one, coolant lines pretty much all in,
tbelt
blox intake manifold gasket
engine getting close

need to clean up the stock throttlebody, finish up the fuel system

I also finished up the prep for the steering rack, new Hardrace inner and outter tie rods and steering rack bushings. Preped and ready to go. Thanks again Freeman at Velocityshop.com for overnighting the bushings to me from Florida.



Assembling the head
April 23, 2010, 5:28 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

Okay….
the head was preped by a machine shop, valve seats redone, cleaned, magnafluxed for cracks, resurfaced the face/decked…all good
nice head
nice head
nice cam journals

This head was made/cast in 1996
96 year casting

Put on the headgasket, or ham gasket as my wife calls it (where the head and block would be the top and bottom buns of the “engine sandwich”)
headgasket
oh for those doing LSvtec’s that think there is no difference between b16a and b18c head bolts there is a difference.
B18C on the top, B16A on the bottom
head bolts

Clean intake ports
intake ports
Clean exhaust ports
clean exhaust ports

Lets start off with assembling the rocker arms, and oil shafts.
Lubricate them a bit with oil as you are assembling, then put the strawberry jam on the rocker pads for prelube before the cams go in. Oh…i meant assembly lube, i used some clevite77 that i had lieing around.
assembly lube
cam caps on almost done :)
lubed cams

We are getting close :)
getting close to completion



Closing off the bottom end
April 23, 2010, 4:45 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

Today i started off installing the oil pickup, oil baffle pan, oil pan gasket and closed off the bottom with the oil pan. I think i’ll use some Spoon magnetic drain plugs to get any metal during the break in period. Everything torqued to factory spec
oil pickup and baffle
Also cleaned up the oil an before install, lotta stuff stickin on it after siting around for 6months
Looks like the last douch bag that used this oil pan welded a oil bung on it, you can see it on the top. Total gayness, however, should not hinder performance or oil baffling at all.
oil pan
brand new oil pan gasket :)
oil pan gasket
Torque everything down to spec and it’s closed off
oil pan closed off



still building
April 21, 2010, 5:08 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

just added a few more things to the block
oil cooler is back on
oil pump (and new front crank seal)
water pump
new rear main seal and housing resealed
oil pump and front seal
rear main seal
oil cooler



bearings arrived
April 19, 2010, 3:33 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

So the honda bearings arrived
-main bearing journal 3 (pink)
-rod bearing 1 (yellow)
-rod bearing 2 (green)
-rod bearing 3 (green)
-rod bearing 4 (pink)

i retested everything and everything is comfortably within spec. main caps 2,3,4 torqued to 49lbs, main caps 1,5 torqued to 56lbs and rod caps torqued to 33lbs with the digitial torque wrench.

here’s a picture of the pink 3 journal main cap/bearingpink 3 main cap

I also took saw some nicks here and there on the piston themselves, probably from the machine shop when they were moving stuff around. I took the liberty to us 1500grit emery cloth to debur any sharp edged that i saw, then cleaned up pistons again with solvent and preped them for block installation.
debured piston
Preped up the cylinder walls with some regular oil
preping the cylinder walls

Pink rod bearings, and these pistons are pretty cool that they have oil lubrication holes for the wrist pins.
jdm gsr pistons and rods

Now install the piston rings
clock the rings as per honda spec
oil ring at 4o’clock position with the top and bottom rings 15degrees offset in each direction
top piston ring between 7-8o’clock position
2nd piston ring 10:30-11o’clock position
clocking the rings
compression and install the pistons/rings into the block making sure the rods don’t damage your crank journals when you tap it in.
piston/ring install

Everythings tested/installed/and ready to rock and roll :)
installed
installed

JDM GSR :)
p72-00
jdm gsr p72-00 pistons
jdm b18c block

cranked the block over by hand and it feels like….buttaaaaAAAAA



bearings tested
April 8, 2010, 5:09 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

i did more testing with a set of green honda rod bearings as a reference.  Since using the ACL rod bearings are too tight in general.  I was forced to go with oem honda for the flexibility of size selection.

ACL rod bearings size 0.0591mm (according to their website), it would appear that the ACL bearing is an equivalent to a brown/green honda bearing. From my testing it would seem the ACL bearing is almost a size blue.

Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 0.0594”- 0.0593” 13211-P72-003
Black 0.0593”- 0.0592” 13212-P72-003
Brown 0.0592”- 0.0591” 13213-P72-003
Green 0.0591”- 0.0590” 13214-P72-003
Yellow 0.0590”- 0.0589” 13215-P72-003
Pink 0.0589”- 0.0587” 13216-P72-003
Red 0.0587”- 0.0586” 13217-P72-003

bearings ordered and will retest again when they arrive.
cylinder rod 1 yellow
cylinder rod 2 green
cylinder rod 3 green
cylinder rod 4 pink



lets start building the jdm b18c1
April 6, 2010, 5:31 pm
Filed under: engine build 1 jdm b18c gsr

lets start building in the kitchen why not :)

Doing my plastigauge testing i had to do it at room temperature so i had no choice but to do it inside the house.  Once that’s done i can take it outside and assemble in the garage.  Love my wife, so understanding :) 

block ready for testing

Lets start checking the tolerances of the bearings for the mains.  I’m using some acl standard size bearings for the mains.  Block has been totally stripped, cleaned honed, and checked for straightness.  Crank has also been checked to make sure it’s not warped and journals polished for any imperfections.

nice hone
bare block and oil squirters
crank checks out good

all bearings on the mains seem to check out okay, all within spec. 

However, the acl rod bearings is a whole different story.  They were way too tight, i’m going to have to pay extra to get the oem honda bearings, probably going to try some green rods bearing.  i guess i better order the bearings with honda before it’s cut off and i got to wait another 24hrs to get them in :(  hopefully some oem honda green rod bearings gets this thing assembled soon.




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